“The David, Uffizi, and the Art of Waiting in Line”

After the week end trip to Florence, or Firenze, I now officially feel like a world traveler. Exploring a city as large and unfamiliar as Florence was daunting. Navigating the one way streets, narrow sidewalks, vespas, taxis, trains, the bus system and the maps (which I am still positive are not completely accurate) without supervision was exhilarating. In only three short days I was able to visit all the major museums and sites that I originally wanted to. Since my return my list of “must see in Florence”has grown exponentially, and I can only hope that I can squeeze in another visit before I return home.

Florence is referred to as the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance. Judging from the incredible artwork, impressive architecture, and rich cultural history I would agree. After emerging from the train station I was struck with the hustle and bustle of Florence. Men stood on corners trying to sell small umbrellas and cheap plastic ponchos, portable wood and metal carts displayed touristy goods, and most impressive of all the hint of churches, bell towers, and domes peaked over the tops of the surrounding buildings. On the trek to the hotel I was given a taste of all Florence had to offer. Walking through the leather market my eyes were captivated with the beauty and diversity of the goods offered, and my nose tingled with the warm rustic hint of real leather. It seemed that every street I turned on had something new and exciting, the Florence Cathedral, Campanile, Baptistery, Orsanmichele, large piazzas full of people despite the slight cool drizzle, and more gelato than I could keep track of. After this “taste” of Florence I was ready to explore.

Florence, the largest city in Tuscany and its capital, sprawls around the banks of the River Arno. A former Roman City, Florence is home to some of the world most well known and appreciated works of art. I was told by my Art History Professor that almost every great artist of the renaissance was from Florence or spent time in Florence. Brunelleschi, Donatello, Masaccio, Ghiberti, Filippo Lippi, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michelangelo are just a few of the artists who graced Florence with their artwork, and their influence on the city is obvious. Just take the Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, better known as the The Florence Cathedral or just The Duomo,which is the icon of Florence. Being one of the largest landmarks in the city, it is beautiful to behold as well as an important site to me, the map reader, in order to locate my precise location. My role as the navigator was fondly referred to as the “navigation station”. I found that when I could not see the Duomo I was more likely to stray further away from my intended destination.

The Uffizi gallery was built in 1581 by Granduca Francisco de’ Medici son of the famous Cosimo I Medici. The Gallery was constructed to connect it to the Medici Palace. This was achieved by using the Ponto Vecchio which extends over the Arno River connecting the two Medici buildings. Originally it was built for offices, to host bureaucratic meetings, but some parts used as laboratories, a pharmacy and a garden. Before I was actually allowed to enter the Uffizi I had to wait in line outside the museum. This was the first time in Italy I had waited in an organized line, most of the time it is whomever can get to the door, or counter, first. To pass the time, I watched men and women have their caricatures drawn, living statues pose with tourists, and street vendors attempt to sell their wares.

Once I was finally able to enter the Uffizi I was overtaken by the architecture, grand staircases, painted ceilings, and vast expanses of windows. The ceilings depicted sea scenes, portraits, elegant flora and fauna. Then I was able to turn my attention to works of art. The Botticelli’s paintings The Birth Of Venus and The Primavera were impressive in size, talent and elements of the painting. Botticelli was born to a Florentine tanner in 1445. He first apprenticed with a goldsmith, but also studied the works of Fra Filippo Lippi and Verrocchio. Botticelli not only excelled at a young age but also knew some of the day’s most revered men including Leonard da Vinci and the Medici family. He was well educated in science, literature, and the arts. I was able to see that The Primavera contains not only examples of the human figure but also five hundred different species of plants. The thought that was put into just the background of the painting is astonishing. Even on my best day and after an entire semester of Plant Biology I know for a fact that I could not name, let alone paint, such a wide variety of plants.

The Accademia was another surprise. The actual building of the Accademia was not nearly as impressive on the outside or the inside as the Uffizi, but what it lacked in general appearance it made up for in actual art. Although The Accademia is known for Michelangelo’s statue of David, it contained countless other works. The unfinished works The Prisoners by Michelangelo stood in stark contrast to the highly polished and detailed David. The contrast between the two works allowed me to see the creative process behind the artwork. The chisel marks, sharp corners of marble, and rough outlines made the four unfinished statues haunting, and they lingered in my head. The Four Prisoners were designed for the tomb of Pope Julius II. They were never finished due to the death of Michelangelo. The David is indescribable in words. All the studies I completed in art and art history classes could not prepare me for actually seeing it in person. The David is seventeen feet tall though in person it seems even taller. It was original made in 1504 to be placed on the facade of the Florence Cathedral but was so well received that it became a free standing statue. Since Michelangelo’s David was constructed to be viewed from far below he sculpted the head larger than normal so that it could be seen from the street below. The attention to detail cannot be missed. This is all seen in the veins visible on David’s hands, elongated muscle on his legs, the definition of the ribs, and the evidence of a skeleton under the marble skin. It was all enhanced, on my visit, by the sunlight streaming in from the dome perfectly situated just above The David.

Florence was an adventure, from the waiter who refused to let me order my food until I said it in perfect Italian, to the nice man at the train station who directed me to the faster train back to Arezzo. It was a lot to soak up in one weekend, but I thoroughly enjoyed every minute included being bone tired at the end of the day. Until later, Ciao!